A SlowRide DIARYHogsback to Thomas River We began our adventure with a whoopee plunge at our drop off point. Soon a short climb (some walked it) and then the group settled in to a
riding rhythm, some pushing ahead faster and others (like us) taking it
easy, as we followed the dirt track and watched the sun break through the
early morning mist and paint gold streaks across the craggy face of
Gaika’s Kop on our right. The scenery on the Happy Valley route (it’s
well named!) is spectacular and we kept stopping to take pics – the riding is
gentle – long gradients that allow for bird watching, flower spotting and
conversation as we followed the road across the open countryside, the hills
running blue in the distance.
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A quick refreshment stop at the Wagon Wheel in Cathcart, and then it was time to press on - up the N6 to the turn-off at the top of the climb (whew!) and into the 31000 hectares of the Thomas River Conservancy Area.
Yee hah – we rode our bucking iron horses down the hills to Old Thomas River Historical Village. Our gear was waiting for us when we arrived.
First up – a cold beer – then over to the bike wash station - cleaned and checked my bike – and she was good to go.
After a hot shower, we explored - visited the Rock Art Centre – amazing python skin along one wall – checked out some of the vintage cars and found an original camper caravan in the Motor Museum. Then we chilled in the pub in front of the big screen cheering on the boys over a frosty or few.
Yee hah – we rode our bucking iron horses down the hills to Old Thomas River Historical Village. Our gear was waiting for us when we arrived.
First up – a cold beer – then over to the bike wash station - cleaned and checked my bike – and she was good to go.
After a hot shower, we explored - visited the Rock Art Centre – amazing python skin along one wall – checked out some of the vintage cars and found an original camper caravan in the Motor Museum. Then we chilled in the pub in front of the big screen cheering on the boys over a frosty or few.
Thomas River - Khubusi firebreak - past Gubu Dam, Keiskammahoek to Cata
Up early – wanted to sniff the breeze, walk a bit and loosen the legs before hitting the saddle for today’s stretch. Had breakfast, dumped our bags on the luggage van and hit the track as the sun tipped the tops of the gum trees on the roadside. We soon got back into the rhythm and rode on over cattle grids and past fields of sheep to the gate of Ailsa farm. Here we had a change of pace – single track through the grass field camps, a scramble over the rocks of the narrow river crossing – a 6km stretch of off-road riding that demanded our attention, or it would be a case of up and over and off.
Lots of photo stops as the path turned and wandered across the landscape on and up to the base of Mount Thomas.
Lots of photo stops as the path turned and wandered across the landscape on and up to the base of Mount Thomas.
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We stopped to admire the view of the Gubu Dam over the treetops of the indigenous Kologha Forest Reserve - and then we gingerly tackled the 800 meter stony drop down the Khubusi Firebreak to the forestry road that brought us to the refreshment tables set up in the shade on the edge of the Gubu Dam.
Riding a road is to really see the road – a kaleidoscope of colours, smells and sounds. The “ups” are where you catch up with new friends....or they catch up with you – where you strike up a conversation with people you have never met – it’s instant and easy – and it’s a memory that will last forever.
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Cata is a wow! Cata Guides welcomed us at the Museum, and helped arrange our shuttle rides up to our overnight accommodation. Our tent has been set up right at the top, in the grassed lapa area overlooking a beautiful crescent valley and the village below. We dumped our gear in our tent on our camper beds, showered (lots of hot water from the solar heating system) and set off to look around…… a wonderful setting, and all so beautifully cared for. |
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Watched the dawn creep over the edge of the mountain until the sun bounced above the rocky crags. Coffee and rusks waiting for us in the lapa – so yum.
We decided to try the waterfall hike – one of the routes mapped by Birdlife SA through the Indigenous Cloud Montagne Forest – home to ancient yellowwoods, white stinkwood and Cape chestnut. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Amathole_Mountains |
Our village guide led us up and over the ridge at the back of the Chalets – and showed us some of the local plants and explained their uses. After crossing an area of grassland high high in the sky, we suddenly plunged into the forest – and followed the winding trails under the leafy tree canopy. The air was moist and tinged with green – a real elf forest. Birdcalls and the odd Samango monkey chitter broke the silence.
After lunch we drove down to the heart of the village - how interesting to visit the Cata Community Museum – unique in South Africa in that it is the only museum that tells the story of rural land dispossession and the Cata Community’s successful struggle for restitution.
Cata village is a thriving model of integrated community-driven development – a 21st century rural village, characterized by a vibrant local democracy and an integrated approach to country side economic development.
It was an eye-opening afternoon meeting and talking to the people (so together) of the community….hearing their stories and seeing how they live.
Cata village is a thriving model of integrated community-driven development – a 21st century rural village, characterized by a vibrant local democracy and an integrated approach to country side economic development.
It was an eye-opening afternoon meeting and talking to the people (so together) of the community….hearing their stories and seeing how they live.
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Cata to the finish in Hogsback
The last day of our ride. Didn’t want to leave. Will have to come back and spend more time here. There is so much to do….. It was sad to ride out of the village, but soon the fresh clean air put a rosy glow on the cheeks.
The enormous grassy slope of the Cata Dam wall was now on our left as we pedaled on our way, saving our energy for the last haul - the climb back up to Hogsback
The enormous grassy slope of the Cata Dam wall was now on our left as we pedaled on our way, saving our energy for the last haul - the climb back up to Hogsback
Through Keiskammahoek and on to the Sandile Dam road that runs over the top of the dam wall. What a sight – the water of the Sandile Dam winds around hilly outcrops in a series of s-bends and it gleams and glistens where it lies in the deep ravines of the Wolf River Valley.
The route carried on up under the canopy of the indigenous forest, up and over the crest – the Hogsback Mountains – Hog 1, 2 and 3 on our right.
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It’s the end of our ride. It’s the end of our adventure. We have to leave and say goodbye to the magic.... But we are hooked, and back at work, we can’t wait to tell people how we pedalled 200km through the Amathole Mountains .... We visited places and people that we will remember forever. 
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